The Athleisure Trend: Is It Here To Stay?

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Activewear or the ‘Athleisure’ trend has become so popular, it has carved out a niche for itself in the clothing industry, and has won an entry into the Merriam-Webster dictionary, which defines it as “casual clothing meant to be worn both for exercising and for general use.”  It has been the lone star in a waning apparel industry, with an estimated market size of $44 billion in the US alone, according to research firm NPD Group. While the apparel sales, as a whole, increased 2% year-on-year in 2015, the rise in activewear sales was a whopping 16%. If this category is excluded, the total clothing sales would have declined 2%, NPD stated. Morgan Stanley has predicted a growth to $83 billion by 2020, stealing the market share from non-athletic apparel. The graph below charts the rise of the trend globally, with sales climbing from $197 billion in 2007 to over $350 billion by 2020.

Global Activewear Sales

One of the reasons for the massive popularity of the athleisure trend is that it filled a gap in the market place, where clothing that was functional wasn’t particularly stylish. Such clothing can be worn to the gym, as well as everywhere else. This relaxed standard of clothing has been largely driven by the millennials, the largest demographic in the U.S. comprising 28% of the population. Their increased health consciousness, and a cultural shift in the workplace, has made it more acceptable to wear sneakers and sweatpants to the office. Furthermore, as per a Harris poll, 72% of millennials prefer to spend their money on experiences, rather than material things. As athleisure clothing is typically worn for an experience, more often an outdoor experience, such as working out or hiking, they are more likely to spend their money on it. Even for Gap Inc (NYSE:GPS), its Athleta brand, the company’s foray into athleisure, has been selling well. Strong sales of leggings and sports bras were a bright spot in otherwise dismal sales for the company in 2015.

However, as the market booms, there are questions on whether it is on the brink of saturation. A great run of activewear sales by companies such as Under Armour (NYSE:UA) and Lululemon Athletica (NASDAQ: LULU) has prompted the entry of everyone, from Kanye West and Stella McCartney partnering with Adidas, to Beyonce with Topshop, and Alexander Wang with H&M. Even discounters Wal-Mart and Target have entered the field, which has forced the prices to come down. The average prices of tights and capris dropped 9% in the first quarter of 2016, from a year prior, according to data from research firm SportsOneSource. This has also forced a 6% decline in the sales of these items, in dollar terms, in the first quarter.

Activewear- Price Declines

A spate of bankruptcies also suggests the sports and athletic wear market can no longer sustain every retailer that does not stand out to the consumers. In the past year, bankruptcy filings have come from City Sports, Sports Authority, Pacific Sunwear, American Apparel, and Quicksilver. Since athleisure reflects a lifestyle shift, it is unlikely it will disappear soon, despite the market being over-stretched. The retailers will have to keep adapting, and this will mean using different materials, new features such as odorless fabrics, and keeping up to pace with the changing fashion trends.

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Notes:

1) The purpose of these analyses is to help readers focus on a few important things. We hope such lean communication sparks thinking, and encourages readers to comment and ask questions on the comment section, or email content@trefis.com
2) Figures mentioned are approximate values to help our readers remember the key concepts more intuitively. For precise figures, please refer to our complete analysis for Gap Inc.
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